France north to south by bike.

Setting Out

2009-08-20T02:26:00.000-07:00

The plan is to cycle from the Channel coast of France via the Atlantic at La Rochelle to the Mediterranean coast near Beziers (swimming or at least paddling in each sea). The first leg was from La Rochelle to the Mediterranean - beginning in May. This leg finishes the trip taking us from Dinard back to the start point at La Rochelle.
I've attached maps of the route where possible - though the maps show the on-road route, not the cycle paths which we followed for the most part.

My sisters Lis and Cath joined for the second leg though our preparation doesn't quite match that of the real thing (shown in the video above) being mainly limited to sinking a bottle of wine and looking for cycling music on the internet.

Still, we managed to take our bikes to pieces, fit them in bike bags and transport them safely to the airport, after which we persuaded a French taxi driver to deliver us and bikes to our hotel where we reassembled them to a shape which we hope is close to the original.

I took a paddle in the sea to mark the northern end of the trip so tomorrow we are off!

Dinard to Trevron

2009-08-19T15:26:00.000-07:00

About 50k to do today and mainly across country with a fair smattering of hills. That's probably why we all collapsed into bed at 10pm! On the positive side we have just worked out that 6 hours cycling uses about 2400 calories. Bring us the second bottle!

Stopped in Dinan for lunch and in a vain search for a bike shop as we have a few niggling problems which are making the ride less comfortable than it should be. Dinan is VERY steep. Some lovely villages along the river after Dinan though the weather isn't doing them justice at present - still overcast though warm and dry.

Very friendly and well presented B and B and as a bonus one of the other guests tightened a loose spindle in my rear wheel which had been making alarming noises as I rode along.
They seem to be very into hydrangeas in this part of the world - I have never seen so many colours and types in one place

&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;a href="http://www.mapmyride.com/ride/france/dinard/570124958712464225"&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;Dinard to Trevron&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/a&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;br/&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;a href="http://www.mapmyride.com/find-ride/france/dinard"&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;Find more Bike Rides in Dinard, France&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/a&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;

.

Trevron to Mauron

2009-08-18T15:29:00.000-07:00

First long trip today - around 60k and mostly cross country rather than cycle trails. They have obliging signposted the easy quiet roads though which makes life a lot easier.
Passed through the station for the 'velorail' a pedal-driven contraption running on an old rail line. Think I'll stick to my bike.

However they also had a rather nice toy train running around a track around the top pf the coffee bar - nice.

Arrived in Mauron around 5 and spotted a bike shop which will be our first port of call tomorrow.

102km to date

&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;a href="http://www.mapmyride.com/ride/united-kingdom/newton-on-derwent/851124958831993070"&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;Trevron to Mauron&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/a&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;br/&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;a href="http://www.mapmyride.com/find-ride/united-kingdom/newton-on-derwent"&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;Find more Bike Rides in Newton On Derwent, United Kingdom&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/a&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;

Mauron to Molac

2009-08-17T15:31:00.000-07:00

Got bikes fixed before setting off and in theory this was going to be an easy day - all cycle path and not too far which was why we decided to take a quick detour down the Nantes Brest canal to Malestroit for lunch. Very nice detour but we then couldn't find the way off the cycle path which meant we ended up doing about 72k instead of the planned 60! Moreover although the day started overcast it got gradually hotter, up to 30 in the afternoon.
Eventually we flagged down a passing cyclist who led us to a narrow path down a bank- we would never have found it!

Molac is in the middle of nowhere - a tiny place. The hotel was not great but very friendly and we enjoyed sitting outside and watching the housemartins wheeling in the square and feeding their young on the wall of the hotel.
174km to date.

&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;a href="http://www.mapmyride.com/ride/france/mauron/750124958877963590"&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;Mauron to Molac&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/a&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;br/&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;a href="http://www.mapmyride.com/find-ride/france/mauron"&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;Find more Bike Rides in Mauron, France&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/a&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;

Molac to Guerande

2009-08-16T15:31:00.000-07:00

The market square in Questembert.

No cycle routes available today so had to pick our way across D roads - quiet ones where possible. Brief stop at Questembert which was pretty then quietish roads almost as far as Arzal where there is a dam + road across the river.

Navigating through D roads on the other side we came across a signed route through back roads whick took us within 6 km of Guerande but then there was no option but the very busy D road across the salt marsh - horrible! After dicing with death for half an hour we were relieved to arrive in Guerande - a lovely little town though rather full of tourists.
Entrance to Guerande

Took a stroll around the town in the evening and ate some delicious galette (mine was Camembert and apple). Concert in town centre with very good unaccompanied female singing group. Forgot to ask their name though.

Around the church in the main square was a sort of sculpture installation - lots of small metal figurines depicting people doing the activities particular to the salt marshes.

226 km to date. Getting hotter!

&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;a href="http://www.mapmyride.com/ride/france/molac/485124959198485120"&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;Molac to Guerande&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/a&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;br/&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;a href="http://www.mapmyride.com/find-ride/france/molac"&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;Find more Bike Rides in Molac, France&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/a&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;

Guerande to Pornic

2009-08-15T15:00:00.000-07:00

Morning started cloudy but if today is anything like the last few days pm will be baking.
To our relief discovered there are marked cycle trails - mix of offroad trails and on quiet roads as far as St Nazaire. They add about a third to the distance but take 90% off the anxiety. The thought of crossing the 6km very steep, very busy bridge was preying on our minds. Delighted to discover a 'ferry' in the form of a taxi which will take up to three bikes and riders over for twelve euros - done deal. You can just see part of the bridge and the view over the railings in these photo but it really doesn't convey its terrifying height.

The afternoon built up to 29 C so we were glad that the route from then on was back onto cycle paths. However they definitely add to the km, so it was gone six when we rolled into Pornic, a very pretty little harbour.

Comfortable hotel overlooking the old port. A bit noisy but the view was worth it.
66km today, total 292km.

Pornic to Fromentine

2009-08-14T15:32:00.000-07:00

30 degrees forecast today and already hot when we set out.

Quite hilly on leaving Pornic but as we dropped down into the Vendee it was like cycling from West Wales into East Anglia with muddy creeks crisscrossing the landscape - many with fixed fishing nets - and then back into West Wales again.

Some imaginative person had also thought to broadcast wild flower seeds (poppies, cornflower etc) along the sides of the path which transformed the ride.

It was like cycling through the ends of the earth with isolated houses and tiny fishing ports here and there.

We decided we didn't want to face the busy road from Beauvoir to Fromentine so decided to take the 5km tidal causeway to the Ile de Noirmoutier - which meant we were forced to dawdle over a leisurely lunch and bottle of wine waiting for low tide.

Theoretically you can cross from an hour before low tide but long before that cars were edging out along the causeway - some to park half way in the sea to look for oysters. We decided to go for it once the water was 4 inches deep as that guaranteed us a traffic-free crossing - but wet feet. Such fun!

Then along the island and over the bridge to Fromentine. Wall to wall caravans but a lovely beach and the hotel was very individual and attractive - sort of colonial style.
The only drawback to the resort was that it was so packed (being Aug 15) that we couldn't find any where to eat without a long wait so ended up buying pizza and a bottle of wine to eat on the terrace of our room.

And a beautiful sunset to round off the evening!
348km to date

&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;a href="http://www.mapmyride.com/ride/france/pornic/251124967735654964"&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;Pornic to Fromentine&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/a&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;br/&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;a href="http://www.mapmyride.com/find-ride/france/pornic"&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;Find more Bike Rides in Pornic, France&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/a&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;

Fromentine to Bretignolles

2009-08-13T15:33:00.000-07:00

The diversity of this coast continues to surprise. From Fromentine which, though small, was surrounded by caravan sites, through huge multistorey developments in St Jean de Mont
and Notre Dame de Mont, all with wide sandy beaches. Then narrow sandy coves between rocky promontories

We stopped for lunch(v. nice) at Sion Plage, just north of St Gilles Croix de Vie - quite a busy sailing port.
Arrived at the hotel around 5 and still very hot so Cath and I took a swim (so the Atlantic swim can be ticked off the list).
The chef of our hotel ran a Michelin rated restaurant (no stars, but a good write up in the guide) but we weren't tempted by anything on the menu so walked miles into the town centre (such as it was) to find something to eat. Nothing very appetising but we had had an excellent lunch so no complaints.
401 km to date

&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;a href="http://www.mapmyride.com/ride/france/la-barre-de-monts/871124967766710490"&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;07/08/2009 Route&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/a&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;br/&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;a href="http://www.mapmyride.com/find-ride/france/la-barre-de-monts"&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;Find more Bike Rides in La Barre-de-monts, France&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/a&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;

Bretignolles to La Tranche sur Mer

2009-08-12T15:34:00.000-07:00

A long one today (about 75km) so relieved that the weather is apparently going to be cloudy most of the day.

We started off with a great breakfast from our Michelin chef and were away by 9. We positively stormed along and covered 40km before lunch which we ate in Talmont . There wasn't much on offer so we were glad to find a little cafe offering very reasonable lunches in what seemed to be an extension to the car park in the shade of the chateau.

The waitress was not only quick and efficient but quite brave too as she had to cross the road from the cafe with every order!
Then cross country again to pick up the cycle path again in Longeville. The last 10km dragged (as it always seems to) and we arrived at our hotel around 6pm. The coast just seems to be more of the same...
478km down.

&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;a href="http://www.mapmyride.com/ride/france/bretignolles-sur-mer/323124967799552538"&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;Bretignolles to Tranche sur Mer&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/a&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;br/&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;a href="http://www.mapmyride.com/find-ride/france/bretignolles-sur-mer"&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;Find more Bike Rides in Bretignolles-sur-mer, France&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/a&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;

La Tranche sur Mer to Sainte-Radégonde-des-Noyers Tuesday 18

2009-08-11T15:34:00.000-07:00

SO hot today - up to 45 degrees in the afternoon. but only 47 km - which was just as well in view of the heat.

Much of the trip was over reclaimed land in the Bay of Aiguillon and in fact you could see on the map which parts had been reclaimed when as slices were labelled 'prise 1, 2' etc. The Dutch again of course! It did mean that the ride was a bit disappointing from the point of view of scenery - though it was interesting to cycle past a rocky escarpment in the middle of seemingly

endless flat plains and realise that this was the original coastline.
We took a couple of hours out in the middle of the day to have a doze in the shade since we were concerned about arriving too early. All the same, when we arrived we were superheated and more than glad to sit in the shade in the garden and drink the cold drink offered by our landlord.
Really lovely bed and breakfast. The owners are Parisienne ex-journalists who spend the summer offering bed and breakfast, spring and autumn guiding birdwatching tours in the Baie d'Aiguillon and winter leading nature and art tours in Africa.
They seem to have it sorted!

Total 525km

&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;a href="http://www.mapmyride.com/ride/france/tranche-sur-mer/868124967833990645"&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;La Tranche sur mer to St Radegonde&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/a&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;br/&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;a href="http://www.mapmyride.com/find-ride/france/tranche-sur-mer"&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;Find more Bike Rides in Tranche-sur-mer, France&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/a&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;

Sainte-Radégonde-des-Noyers to La Rochelle Airport

2009-08-10T15:36:00.000-07:00

The very last leg...

We estimated that it was about 30km to the airport and as our flight wasn't until 6.15 we thought this was pretty safe. However another hot day was promised so we decided to set off early and try to get most of the cycling out of the way before the real heat of the day.

We took the cycle path along the coast most of the way which afforded wonderful views but rattled us to pieces so cut inland to find the airport. Easier said than done. It's remarkably easy to conceal an airport! After about 45 minutes cycling in circles we finally managed to find the airport entrance around 1.30 - only to discover that the place was HEAVING with people. Most of the crush was due to a clutch of flights due to arrive or leave in the next hour so we decided to find a spot in the shade and wait for calm.

Then Lis discovered a sitdown restaurant with air-conditioning hidden inside the terminal so we were able to kill another hour.
As things calmed in the airport we set about taking our bikes apart for shipping - which provided endless amusement for our fellow passengers. The first one was a challenge (especially after a bottle of wine) but by the third we were pretty slick.

So that's that- journey completed. 566 km on this leg, which, with the other leg, makes a total of almost 1500 really enjoyable kilometres (well I enjoyed them). Many thanks to my saddlesore, sunbaked companions - my sisters Lis and Cath and my daughters Emma and Laura.
Next year Brest to Budapest?

&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;a href="http://www.mapmyride.com/ride/france/champagn魬es-marais/688124967875090579"&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;Ste Radegonde to La Rochelle Airport&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/a&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;br/&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;a href="http://www.mapmyride.com/find-ride/france/champagn魬es-marais"&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;Find more Bike Rides in Champagn魬es-marais, France&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;lt;/a&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;gt;

Monday 18 May - Ile de Re to Rochefort

2009-05-31T12:38:00.000-07:00

It was pouring with rain and the weather forecast promised even more. Looked as though this might be more of a test of character than a holiday.
What a relief – the sun starting to peep through. Tony and our friends waved me off – though as we were planning to meet up for lunch later that day it wasn’t exactly farewell

I had been warned about the bridge between Ile de Re and ‘le continent’ but in fact the slope wasn’t challenging and there was a comfortingly large barrier between the traffic and the cycle lanes. The cycle path around the north of La Rochelle was a delight but the problem arose when trying to cut under the ring road

to get into the town centre. I had only a sketchy map and predictably took several wrong turns which must have added an extra 5 kilometres to the route. Crossing La Rochelle was simple though.

Well marked cycle paths led out past the port and then on to the coastal path which follows the impressive sweep of the bay south of La Rochelle. Lost the cycle path a few times going through various small towns and spent about 20 minutes in Angoulins looking for the way out. This may become a recurrent theme!

About 12h30 I rolled into Chatelaillon Plage where Tony and our friends were waiting for me with a cold beer and a pizza. Apart from the very welcome refuelling Bernard gave me a quick lesson in using a compass with a map so I should have less trouble finding my way out of small villages in future.
From Chatelaillon onwards the trip was easy though unremarkable and the weather continued to improve moment by moment until I arrived in Rochefort in bright sunshine.
I stayed at the Hotel Lafayette – an attractive, clean, friendly little 2 star hotel. I showered, changed and strolled to the main square where I relaxed and enjoyed a citron presse.
Later in the evening I went for a stroll around the ‘Corderie Royale’ where I was reminded of the incredible decibel level that female French teachers seem able to achieve. There was a school party being shown around – so I decided to cut my visit short!
By the way – the most feared words in any language: “ Go straight on, you can’t miss it”. Wrong!
60km so far - only another 800 to go.

Ile de Re to Rochefort
Find more Bike Rides in La Rochelle, France

Tuesday 19 May Rochefort to La Palmyre

2009-05-31T09:45:00.000-07:00

Typical! Today the forecast was for sunshine so I woke up to drizzle. Warm drizzle though. Left Rochefort by the ‘pont transbordeur’ a rather idiosyncratic piece of 19th century engineering.
I had a choice of routes from Rochefort – back to the west along the Charente then south to Moeze and Brouage or through Echillais to the canal. I took advice from the hotel owner ( a keen cyclist) and headed off through Echillais. Bad decision! Getting to Echillais was OK but finding the canal proved a challenge. It must have taken me 40 minutes to cover what should have been 2km to the canal and when I got there the ‘piste cyclable’ on my side of the canal was a soggy grassy path; great for walkers but incredibly difficult for cyclists. And of course on the other bank was a perfectly level beaten earth track. After about 3km of bone-juddering effort I came to a bridge and gratefully crossed over – whereupon the other path immediately became a grassy obstacle course and on my original side of the canal the path transformed into an immaculate tarmac cycle path. I wearily retraced my steps and crossed back, only to find – yes you guessed it- that the tarmac path ran out after 200m or so and the other side once again offered an immaculate cycling surface. Damning all French mapmakers to hell I crossed back (again) and decided that since I still had about 50km to go before I reached my hotel and it was already approaching lunchtime I would cancel the detour to Brouage. Shame – it’s supposed to be very pretty but I was beginning to think I might not see my bed till midnight. In fact I was beginning to wonder if my target of 60km a day might not have been completely unrealistic.
From here on things got better. I carried on along the Canal de Seudre and intrepidly navigated myself through Marennes. The terrain around here is flat and desolate, cut with canals which make it difficult to go in straight line from A to B. It must be a great place for birdwatchers though. Then over the bridge (MUCH harder work than the bridge from the Ile de Re) towards Ronce les Bains. Great surface (I’m becoming a connoisseur of road surfaces) and ran through the forest within sound of the sea. I didn’t actually see the sea though, as to do so meant either lugging the bike 200 yards over a sand dune or leaving it and all my worldly goods unaccompanied. I had chosen to take the longer route on the cycle path rather than cut directly across the peninsula where I would have to negotiate traffic. All went swimmingly till about 2pm when I ran into a barrier across the path and a notice announcing that it was closed for widening. This left me with the option of a rather busy D road or ignoring the notice. Having been in France all of 3 days by now I was in the mood to ignore any rule which seemed inconvenient so I decided to press on and take my chance. I had enjoyed about 6 km of idyllic cyclepath when I spotted, in the distance, a total roadblock of bulldozers, lorries, diggers, tarmac layers etc etc. But – off to the right of the road was a forest path which appeared to run parallel to the piste and offered an alternative. Unfortunately after about 15 minutes the path started to head away from the bike path. Lorries were still charging up and down, so no possibility of rejoining the main path and I had no wish to retrace my steps. My trusty compass told me I was heading south and the sea was still on my right; it looked as though the path was a short cut to the lower part of the piste so I ploughed on. And voila, there it was exactly where I had calculated. I was quite proud of myself though rather hot and sweaty.
La Palmyre (when I got there) was a strange place. Very quiet, very clean, lots of tree-lined avenues. I wonder what it’s like in summer? I bet the cycle paths are thronged with nose-down, bum-up, lycra-clad cyclists. I suppose I was seeing it out of season but it seemed to be populated entirely by coach parties and retired people. A coach party of Belgians arrived while I was sat on the hotel terrace and for some reason they ALL stared at me as they walked in. I was tempted to rush in and check my ‘look’ in the mirror – but I know what it will be - ‘windswept and sunburnt’. The hotel (Le Palmyr’Hotel) was very much a coach tour hotel - but OK.

130km so far

Rochefort to La Palmyre
Find more Bike Rides in Charente Maritime, France

Wednesday 20 May La Palmyre - Hourtin

2009-05-31T08:56:00.000-07:00

The weather forecast lied again! The sun is out and there is a cool breeze. Perfect cycling weather. At the ferry at Royan by 10h00 which was much faster than I expected.
Along the way I took a few pictures of shore mounted fishing stations. Quite a feature of this part of the coast, they are remarkably similar in principle to the fishing nets seen in south India – just worked by motors instead of people.
This coast continues the impression given by La Palmyre. There is a smattering of the usual seaside tat and a smattering of shops selling shrimp nets but the general impression is of a place which is well manicured and very very quiet. I imagine it’s rather different in season.
It’s also clear that the same architect seems to have been responsible for all the seafront houses in pre first world war seaside resorts. They all look like Le Vesinet. Dinard, Biarritz, Royan – all identical.
I shared the queue for the ferry with three very serious Dutch cyclists. They were doing the St Jacques de Compostella route and have all the gear. And it all matches perfectly - identical jackets, panniers, shoes, hats
etc etc. I am humbled.
Once over the ferry it was cycling paradise – perfect road surfaces, flat or undulating paths. Of course you have to like pine forests. I stopped for lunch in Montalivet and the Dutch trio went past. I felt quite smug.
The last 10km was a bit of a flog. Don’t believe people who tell you that there are no hills in the Landes. My chambre d’hotes was a few kilometres off the cycle path and if I’d looked at the map closely I’d have seen that the road between was called the Petit Mont. In fact not a very steep hill but murderously long. For the first time I decided to get off the bike and push. It was only when I got to Cartignac that I realised there was a cycle path most of the way which skirts the worst of the hill.
The chambre d’hote was mediocre but pretty much what I expected from the website.
208 km so far

La palmyre to Hourtin Plage
Find more Bike Rides in Acquitaine, France

Thursday 21 May Hourtin - Lacanau ocean

2009-05-31T05:00:00.000-07:00

Weather still holding up and the cycle path back from Cartignac to the main cycle path was much less of a killer than yesterday’s ride. I saw a tortoise on the path. Very small and obviously enjoying the heat of the tarmac. I am getting rather bored with pine forests though.
It was the same motorway as far as Carcans where I stopped for lunch. Then a surprise; it suddenly became a 50cm wide bumpy concrete strip. Much less pleasant to ride on and demanded some concentration not to fall off.
I arrived in Lacanau-Ocean at about 4pm and unfortunately another disappointing place to stay. The hotel (Hotel Oyat) was a bit grubby and my room stank of cigarettes. However I wasn’t planning to spend too much time in the room. It was lovely to sit out on the terrace overlooking the sea and watch the surfers.
The place is a mix. My first impression was quite unspoilt, wooded, very much a surfers’place. On the other hand the main street was full of the usual bars, clothes shops and tourist tat. On balance a young place though.
Despite the fact that the hotel was rubbish it had a very good restaurant so I treated myself to a good meal: Coquilles St Jacques facon Rossini (with foie gras). Yummy.
258km so far

Hourtin Plage to Lacanau Plage
Find more Bike Rides in Acquitaine, France, France

Friday 22 May Lacanau Ocean - Bordeaux

2009-05-30T08:00:00.000-07:00

My first puncture! I must have picked up a thorn at some point in the forest and discovered on leaving the town that my front tyre was flat. A moment of panic but in fact I just swopped the inner tube – no problems.
Splendid piste from Lacanau to Bordeaux but more kilometres of boring pine forest. For the first time I am beginning to find the need to cycle standing up some of the time. A beautiful day so I had to stop and plaster on the factor 50.
Just outside Lacanau I picked up a friendly Spaniard who decided to keep me company to Bordeaux. Nice chap but almost impossible to understand as he had a really strong Spanish accent. I also got rapidly tired of being told what to do, which turnings to take etc – all very well-meaning but I’ve got this far on my own. In fact one of the best things about this trip is to wake up every morning and know you have 60km between you and your next stop and only pedalpower and a map to get you there. I was quite glad when he stopped for a snack. I on the other hand hadn’t thought to bring a casse-croute so ran a severe risk of starving to death as none of the little villages en route seemed to have an open shop. I arrived in Ste Helene just as the supermarket was closing (12 – 3) and no way were they going to stay open an extra 5 minutes for some sweaty anglo-saxon on a bike. . That’s when you know you are in the south. Fortunately I found a small restaurant in Salaunes so was able to recharge my batteries.
I was nervous about cycling into Bordeaux along the main roads but it was really easy. Luckily I spotted a couple of cyclists heading back into town with a child on the back of the bike and they led me safely onto the cycle network.
Laura arrives on Saturday so it will be a non-cycle day – which will give me a bit of welcome recovery time. Very nice hotel (Hotel La Tour Intendance) right in the centre of the pedestrian area.
318km to date

Saturday 23 May Bordeaux

2009-05-29T14:15:00.000-07:00

No cycling! I had a wander around the town in the morning, topped up my stock of maps and bought a new inner tube (just in case). Also stumbled across a map of the cycle path from Bordeaux to Toulouse along the Canal de la Garonne produced by the tourist office, Really useful! I am carrying about a ton of maps but it’s almost impossible to get a joined up view of the route. In the afternoon I took the shuttle out to the airport to meet Laura. Luckily the shuttle takes bikes in bags as luggage to no need to unpack her bike and cycle it back. Bordeaux is a great place to cycle in – but be warned, they hand out tickets to bikes as well as to cars!
The weather was still beautiful and the evening was warm and delightful. We had a wander round the town in the evening and ate outdoors in one of the squares. I’ve been to Bordeaux so many times for work but I’ve never had a chance to explore the centre properly. There was a major football match on that night but no problems in the town centre.

Sunday 24 May Bordeaux - Courpiac

2009-05-28T14:17:00.000-07:00

Today’s ride is along a new cycle route which follows the line of an old railway line. We rode out of Bordeax along the riverside cycle path, over the bridge and south alongside the river. As mentioned before this is a really bike-friendly town. As it was a Sunday the path was full of cyclists doing the family outing thing. They were quite a mix: lycra-clad supermen and family outings with tiny tots trying desperately to keep up with dad on a full size bike.

The crowds slackened after Creon and we even saw a deer leap over the path ahead of us. The weather was beautiful, the path excellent and we arrived at 2h30, much earlier than expected. As our hosts were clearly unprepared we dropped off our bags and rode on to the next village for a cold beer then came back to the mill and slept most of the afternoon. We toyed with the idea of a dip in the pool – but it wasn’t quite hot enough. The day’s rest seems to have done the trick though as far as saddle-soreness is concerned. The chamois cream really helps too. No more pain!

The Moulin du Prieur is a lovely building in a beautiful spot. It’s a new b and b run by a very pleasant couple but the facilities are a bit rough around the edges – particularly when compared to some of the places we stayed in later.
358km

Bordeaux to Courpiac
Find more Bike Rides in Bordeaux, France

Monday 25 May Courpiac - Noillac

2009-05-27T14:29:00.000-07:00

The cycle path ended at Sauveterre en Guyenne and from there we had to cut across country on D roads to La Reole on the Garonne. The plan was to buy bread or a sandwich in Sauveterre but of course, being Monday, everything was shut. I had planned a route on the ‘white’ roads on the Michelin map which proved to be easy and surprisingly flat.

La Reole was a surprise. Tiny but a medieval gem. It has the oldest Hotel de Ville in France (built by Richard Coeur de Lion), the Black Prince’s Palace, a huge priory built in the 9th century. Well worth a visit. This whole area seems to have formed the front line in the 100 years war and in addition was in the middle of the Cathar Crusade (Montsegur was 10km away). It’s packed with history, much of which you would miss in a car.

Unfortunately, despite all this history there seemed to be the usual shortage of food. Eventually we found a slightly down-at-heel Café des Sports which provided a cup of tea and a couple of sandwiches which we decided to take away and eat somewhere more salubrious.
We asked directions from a couple of schoolkids and attracted their derision by referring to the Garonne as a ‘riviere’. I’d forgotten how structured these things are in French. It is of course a ‘fleuve’! Later that even, over dinner in our b and b we were given an exposition on the difference between riviere/ fleuve/fleuve cotiere/ confluence etc. Ah there are times I miss the certainties of the French educational system.
Although the map doesn’t show it we were told by a couple of cyclists (also hunting unsuccessfully for something to eat in Sauveterre) that the cycle path now starts in Fontet and were delighted to discover that this the case. We followed it as far as Hure then cut off to our next overnight stop in La Tuilerie, near Noillac. It was a bit of a slog up and down hills and over D roads, but proved to be very worthwhile. We arrived 15 minutes before the heavens opened to a warm welcome with tea and brownies. . The other guests arrived around 6pm. They had been out for a bike ride and didn’t miss the downpour.
The evening was very convivial. Copious glasses of wine were served as ‘apero’ and under its influence we played table-tennis and table football with the son of the household while the daughter of the house practised for her drum exam upstairs. After an excellent dinner around the immense round table, talk turned again to table tennis and led to Johnny rushing out to the garage and returning with makeshift bats (cut out of a pine plank) and net (two brooms and a roll of tinfoil). We ended the evening playing 3 a side table tennis around the table. The house is beautiful and Alison runs a very hospitable and classy chambre d’hote. Definitely a place to revisit
Mileage to date 421km

Courpiac to Noillac
Find more Bike Rides in Noillac, France

Tuesday 26 May Noillac - Feugarolles

2009-05-26T14:47:00.000-07:00

Our first rainy day – but only a light drizzle so not enough to spoil the ride. We are lucky though as apparently Bordeaux has been hit with major hailstorms since our departure. We tried a different route back to the canal and predictably got a little off track. The drizzle added to the gloom but once we got to the canal we just zoomed along – and the sun obligingly emerged. We stopped for a quick snack at the ‘Halte Nautique’ at Meilhan la Garonne and had a couple of mulberries for dessert from the trees growing in the picnic area.
We made a few detours – into Mas d’Agen for coffee (a very pretty little town with a delightful market square) and Damazan where we ate lunch (12e for a very good 3 course meal).
We did it again, getting to our destination a couple of hours early. This time we met with a less warm welcome – sent packing till 16h30! Wet left our bags and set off to look around Port Ste Marie, which had a very pretty old centre but appeared to be closed. In fact much of this part of France appears to be closed much of the time. Not the season yet of course.
The B and B was functional but not in the same class as last night and the food was not great tough duck and watery tinned peas. Pleasant company though, as there were another 3 or 4 couples staying so lots of chat over dinner and breakfast.
Mileage to date 489 km
Noillac to Feugarolles
Find more Bike Rides in Meilhan, France

Wednesday 27 May Feugarolles - St Nicolas de la Grave

2009-05-25T14:52:00.000-07:00

Beautiful cycling weather – sunny but with a refreshing breeze. However the main problem on this route seems to be avoiding starving to death. It may of course be easier in season. No table d’hote tonight so we needed to buy something to eat. Thank goodness we managed to find an open boulangerie in Agen so enjoyed an excellent picnic. The pont-canal out of Agen is splendid. This part of the route seems to be defined by the excellent canalside path and a shortage of shops and restaurants on the canal itself. You can of course strike off into the canalside villages but they are all up fairly intense hills - and of course you are not quaranteed success when you get to the top.
We cut off the path for our destination at the confluence of the Garonne and the Tarn The expanse of water looks almost endless. To leave the path we had to climb a huge flight of stairs and cross a bridge. Fortunately they had provided a groove for bikes so we unloaded the bags and pushed each one up , Laura and I pushing at once. Just before we left the cycle path we managed to find a grocer’s and picked up some tomatoes, cheese and cold meat just in case there wasn’t a restaurant in town. In fact there was, but guess what - Weds is the night it’s closed.
The chambre d’hotes was in a beautiful maison de maitre where we had airy and spacious rooms on the top floor, the use of a breakfast room to assemble our meal and a little terrace to eat it. The owner was very pleasant. Much less involved than the b and b in Noillac, it was clearly just a business for her, but it was a place I’d recommend.
Mileage to date 543 km
Feugarolles to St Nicolas de la Grave
Find more Bike Rides in La Garonne, France

Thursday 28 May St Nicolas de la Grave - Grisolles

2009-05-24T14:53:00.000-07:00

We only had around 57 km to cover today and wanted to avoid arriving too early (again) so we decided to allow ourselves some tourism en route. The plan was to arrive in Grisolles in time to meet Emma off the train as she is joining me from here on, while Laura is flying back from Toulouse on Saturday so we stopped off in Moissac, had a coffee and wandered around the abbey which is wonderful.

The interior has been restored to something close to the original decorative state, including the painted walls and it’s
full of old statuary, much of it also restored. The statues had an individuality of expression which I didn’t expect in pre-renaissance art.

More blazing sunshine. I couldn’t believe how lucky we were as thunderstorms were sweeping the rest of France.
The Pente d’eau just before Montech was an impressive piece of machinery. Basically a sort of boat lift which offer an alternative to a set of 5 locks. In a parallel watercourse two powerful motors move a slice of water contained between two watertight barriers up and down the slope – with a boat sat on the water. Unfortunately we didn’t see it in action.

However after Montech we had a nasty surprise. We were confronted by a fleet of resurfacing vehicles blocking the canal path. Apparently they were renewing the 16 km of cyclepath between Montech and Grisolles – no way through! The workmen gave us directions for a detour (our map didn’t go that far off the side of the path) and we set off through the forest. We debated whether to take the first right turn through the forest but decided to carry straight on. Bad decision! We eventually got to our destination but only by making a wide detour which added 10km to the route.
We didn’t make the rendez-vous with Emma. She ended up making her own way to the B and B. We were studying the town plan in the market square about an hour after we had planned to arrive, trying to work out where to go, when a stranger asked if we were looking for Les Muriers and gave us exact directions. The mystery was solved when we arrived - he was the owner’s husband and had put two and two together - the resemblance to Emma and the probability of finding more than one set of hot and sweaty cyclists in the main square of Grisolles.

It was another excellent b and b. We fell gratefully into the pool and the owner brought us fresh orange juice. Once unpacked (the rooms were beautiful and the bathrooms of boutique hotel standard) we wandered around town then came back for aperitifs, an excellent meal, far too much wine and a lively chat. We weren’t the only guests that evening. Other guests were involved in a relay (running) along the canal du midi which was due to start the next day from Toulouse. Rather them than me given that the temperatures are now approaching 30 oC . However, despite the heat I have to say I have never felt fitter or better. No wonder we are seeing all these ancient but clearly very fit cyclists as we go along.
Mileage to date 610 km

St Nicolas to Grisolles
Find more Bike Rides in Grisolles, France

Friday 29 May Grisolles - Toulouse

2009-05-23T14:54:00.000-07:00

The run into Toulouse was only 30km (chickenfeed!) but the last 7 or 8 km were a treat as the walls of the semi-industrial area we went through were covered with stunning graffiti.

The hotel (Grand Hôtel d'Orléans) an idiosyncratic little place with inner balconies covered in plants.Pretty, but the downside to this concept was that someone speaking loudly on the ground floor could be heard with crystal clarity on the third. We discovered this very early the next morning! However they were very understanding about bikes and allowed us to put our bikes in their inner courtyard. Then off to check the departure points of the airport shuttle, buy another map (to get us to Toulouse), have lunch and a glass of wine in the sunshine – after which a siesta became rapidly indispensable.
Toulouse is another town which has taken the bike to its heart. There are plentiful ‘velib’ so we used them to go out for a meal in the evening. We were armed with a list of restaurants from the Guide du Routard but none of the highly recommended ones had outside terraces and we wanted to enjoy the evening air so we settled for a little Lebanese place. Nothing grand but ‘correct’ and outside in the evening air. The town was hopping as it was the national rugby championship final between Toulouse and Clermont Ferrand but the feeling in the streets was very good humoured – even after Clermont won! And just to prove what a small world it is we bumped into our fellow guests from La Grisolles just outside our hotel. They were setting off from the station tomorrow morning so a strong possibility that we will met again.

Total to date 640km

Toulouse to Castelnaudry
Find more Bike Rides in Toulouse, France

Saturday 30 May Toulouse - Castelnaudry

2009-05-22T14:58:00.000-07:00

Saw Laura off to the airport in the morning (on the airport shuttle from the station

We had originally planned to make this a short leg but decided to go straight through to Castelnaudry so that Emma, who had to take a train back up to Paris on Thursday could complete her journey all the way through to the sea.

We admired the houseboats along the canalbanks heading out of Toulouse and greeted the teams of relay runners pounding along the towpath (we didn't see our fellow guests from last night though).

The day was getting hot and we started to

feel hunger and thirst pangs around midday - with the usual quandary - any village which might offer a restaurant was at the top of a hill alongside the canal. One of the relay support teams told us that there was a restaurant in Gardouch so we took the risk - about a kilometre straight up! Fortunately it was open and we had a simple but excellent and very cheap 'formule' which set us up for the rest of the day. Coming down was a lot easier than going up!
Very comfortable ride as far as the Seuil de Narouze, the high point of the canal from the atlantic to the Mediterranean but from there on it became much harder work as the path became much more of a mud track and we had to choose between a path running along a high bank along the canal and the towpath itself which was often too narrow for comfort and full of tree roots. On the other hand from here on it was downhill all the way.
In Castelnaudry we were about to set about looking for our hotel and asked directions from a cheerful group sat on a terrace overlooking the canal – only to discover that this was in fact our hotel (Hotel du Canal). The terrace was occupied by a group of very likeable Americans who had just travelled up the canal by boat from Beziers and were busy polishing off the remaining alcohol from their trip - so we generously sat with them to help out. A nice bunch, they were combining boating and biking along the canal. One of them had managed to fall in a couple of days earlier and was expecting to succumb to plague at any moment.

Being in Castelnaudry cassoulet had to be on the menu. The hotel and the Guide du Routard both recommended the same little restaurant (and they were quite right)and on the way there we met – guess who – the same relay runners from Grisolles and leaving the restaurant as we arrived were the same Americans. The world seems to be getting smaller by the day.
Total to date 700km

Sunday 31 May Castelnaudry - Carcassonne

2009-05-21T15:02:00.000-07:00

A real storm overnight - thunder and lightning on all sides. Our luck held though and there was no more than a light drizzle by the time we set out, though there was a threat of thunder in the air. The path was still pretty poor quality, hard work and increasingly muddy which made it difficult for my bike with hybrid tyres and no suspension. Emma's bike which was more of a cross-country model coped a lot better. The panniers didn't help as they turned minor skids into a major wobbles. We just about coped until the ecluse de Beteille where we came across a miserable gaggle of mountainbikers who were mud to the eyeballs. They told us that the next 7 kilometres were 'la galere' - a mud nightmare. After a quickconsultation of the map we decided to cut across country. The detour worked perfectly, though the last 500 metres was a bit of an act of faith as it meant pushing through a woodland path - which did in fact lead to back to the canal path. We were very pleased with ourselves but in fact we had rejoined the path too soon. The mud was not over and in fact got worse. Anothe problem was that my bike had mudguards which gradually filled with sticky red mud until I couldn't even push the bike forward - and we were still 8 kilometres from Carcassonne. The next 5 kilometres were horrible -pushing the bike through sticky, slithery mud, stopping every few hundred yards to clear the mudguards. I couldn't remove the mudguards as I didn't have the right tools. After what seemed like hours we came to a junction with a main road and gratefully relinquished the towpath.

It wasn't a particularly enjoyable road - quite a lot of fast traffic and giant lorries but anything was better than the mudbath.

By the time we arrived at Carcassonne we were both on our knees and desperately in need of a shower and a snooze. The hotel was much better inside than out and had a stupendous view of the old town. After a rest and a shower we felt strong enough to have a look around the old centre - something I've never found time to do properly. Full of tourists but a wonderful place to stay stay but all the reasonably priced hotels were full - and in any event I don't think we would have been physically capable of pushing our loaded bikes to the top of the hill.

However we felt strong enough in the evening to go back to the old town - by another steeper but shorter route rather than the main road. Quieter and prettier. Carcassonne is lovely in the evening when most of the daytrippers have gone. We had a a good meal - even managed to eat of doors again. It was tempting to stay on for a drink at one of the lovely outdoor bars but the day had taken its toll. We staggered back down the hill and slept like logs.

Total to date 740km

Castelnaudry to Carcassonne
Find more Bike Rides in Castelnaudry, United Kingdom

Monday 1 June Carcassonne - Homps

2009-05-20T15:03:00.000-07:00

We set off with some trepidation and after poring over the map at breakfast. The last thing we wanted was a repeat of yesterday.

The path was fine as far as Trebes but then deteriorated and, though a lot drier looked to be as narrow and bumpy as before.

We had identified a detour through Aigues-Vives across an area of drained lake which looked promising we decided to take it. It proved to be an excellent decision. Dead flat, good tarmac and the wind behind us - what a relief. I had been dreading another 50 km like yesterday. We passed a stunning chateau in the middle of nowhere and rejoined the path at Puicheric. It was showing no sign of improvement though so from here on we took the parallel D roads for most of the way. They were as empty of traffic as the towpath so very pleasant to ride on.

We were really surprised by the difference in the quality of the path after Toulouse. Unlike the path from Bordeax to Toulouse there were plenty of little restaurants - often the lock-keepers themselves offered snacks, wine etc but they were clearly targetting the canal boats. One of the lock-keepers told us that there is a real battle going on between the Canal du Midi, the departement and the mairies of Toulouse/Bordeaux and the Canal laterale. The latter see cycling along the 2 canals as a real driver of tourism in the region but the canal du midi and the departement are, for some strange reason, hostile.
Somewhere after Puicheric I had my second puncture - rear tyre this time. It was quickly fixed - mainly by Emma who was better at remembering where the gears go! All in all a much easier day!

We arrived at Homps (Auberge de lArbousier) around 3. A delightful place. Only 2 stars but the owner was charming and very helpful - even offering to do some adjustments to Emma's bike. The meal was excellent - one of the best we had on the trip. Positive vote for Homps!
Total to date 780km

Carcassonne to Homps
Find more Bike Rides in Carcassonne, France

Tuesday 2 June Homps - Beziers

2009-05-19T15:05:00.000-07:00

The last lap! Today was always going to be a tough day - around 70 kilometres in blazing sunshine - around 30 degrees. We decided to stick to the plan of taking parallel D roads wherever possible but cut back to the canal at Le Somail because it looked very pretty.

Emma suffered more than me on the detours as my bike was much faster on the road and her handlebars were too low for comfort but we had both had enough of tree roots and potholes.

Le Somail was a beautiful spot with some interesting little bars and restaurants. As it was already baking hot we had icecream - rosepetal for me and fig and honey for Emma.

Then across country through fields of poppies and tiny villages. We had bought ham and cheese for lunch on leaving Homps but by midday it was unappetisingly warm and limp so we stopped for lunch in Capestang.

After that the road ran alongside the canal for much of the way but eventually we cut away across country down a long fast hill to Nissan les Enserune. We enjoyed the hill so much that we entirely missed our turning and ended up having to retrace our steps uphill. Not too far though.

We rejoined the canal not far from the Tunnel de Malpas and coasted along to Colombiers where once again we cut across country to Beziers. By this time, with 60 odd km behind us and a temperature of over 30 degrees we were more interested in arriving than in scenery so we took another crosscountry shortcut to the bottom edge of Beziers which must be the least bike-friendly town in France.
Of all the towns we have visited Beziers must be the least attractive. It has a seedy, run down feel and is the only place so far where we felt at all uneasy out in the streets at night. The hotel was rubbish and no lift!
BUT we were within 10km of the sea.
Total to date 858 km

Homps to Beziers
Find more Bike Rides in Homps, France

Wednesday 3 June Beziers - Serignan

2009-05-18T15:07:00.000-07:00

An easy day! We got up in a leisurely manner and made our way downhill to the canal through the park - a much more pleasant route than the noisy, smelly route we had taken into town. The along the canal towpath almost as far as Portiragnes where we cut across to the sea.

In order to complete this trip I have to at least paddle in the sea at the channel, on the Atlantic coast and at the Mediterranean. It was just hot enough to swim so I can consider one part of the challenge completed.

Now all that remains is to the leg from St Malo to La Rochelle!

Total this trip 878 km

&amp;lt;a href="http://www.mapmyride.com/ride/france/b麩ers/929124958625068641"&amp;gt;Beziers to Serignan&amp;lt;/a&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br/&amp;gt;&amp;lt;a href="http://www.mapmyride.com/find-ride/france/b麩ers"&amp;gt;Find more Bike Rides in B麩ers, France&amp;lt;/a&amp;gt;